Pot de crème Lily Ambre, étiquette liste INCI peu d'ingrédients pour un produit sain

Deciphering the INCI list of cosmetic products: what you need to know

Decoding a cosmetic label is a bit like discovering an unknown language: confusing at first glance, but full of meaning for those who take the time to understand it. Behind these often unpronounceable Latin or English words, the INCI list hides a valuable compass for those who want to take care of themselves consciously.

Mandatory on all beauty products, it can become a valuable ally, provided you know how to interpret it. For women attentive to their hormonal balance, their children's health, and the impact of their actions on the planet, learning to read this list is already a step towards making more informed beauty choices.

In this article, we guide you step by step to identify endocrine disruptors and make safer, more serene, more transparent choices.

What is the INCI list?

The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list details all the ingredients contained in a cosmetic product, whether it's a facial treatment, shampoo, or perfume. Created in the United States in 1973 and made mandatory in Europe in the late 1990s, it aims to standardize labeling for greater transparency. It's found on all packaging, often printed in small type, relegated to the back of bottles, and yet, it tells you everything.

The names are written in Latin for natural extracts (e.g., Aqua for water) or in English for chemical substances (e.g., Castor oil for castor oil).

How to read the INCI list of a cosmetic product?

The order of the ingredients

The ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration. Those appearing first are therefore the most abundant. But be aware: ingredients present at less than 1% may be listed out of order, which could minimize the presence of controversial substances.

The main ingredient families

Here are the most common categories:

  • Water (Aqua): often the top ingredient, it forms the basis of many products.
  • Plant extracts: identifiable by the word extract . They are known for their soothing or antioxidant properties.
  • Vegetable/essential oils: identified by oil , they nourish and protect the skin (ex: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil , i.e. Argan vegetable oil).
  • Alcohols: cetyl alcohol , stearyl alcohol (fat, sweet) vs alcohol denat. (more irritating).
  • Preservatives: in organic products, only certain ones are allowed (sorbic acid, benzoic acid…).
  • Perfume / fragrance: a vague term, especially in conventional perfumes, because it can conceal many molecules, often controversial or dangerous.
  • Organic or natural ingredients: often indicated by an asterisk (*), with a legend at the bottom of the label.

Endocrine disruptors: how to identify them in the INCI list?

Hormone disruptors, substances capable of interfering with our hormonal system even in very low doses, are found in cosmetics . Their impact is particularly concerning for children, pregnant women , or those undergoing hormonal transition.

Here is a list of the most commonly found endocrine disruptors in cosmetics:

  • Parabens: methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben;
  • Phenoxyethanol (phenoxyethanol);
  • Triclosan;
  • Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (chemical UV filter);
  • Octocrylene;
  • BHT, BHA (synthetic antioxidants);
  • Siloxanes: cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane etc. ;
  • Phthalates: often hidden under perfume/fragrance;

Phthalates, often used as fixatives, are still common in conventional perfumes. They pose a well-documented risk, especially with repeated exposure. To better understand how these substances end up in our perfume bottles and what safer alternatives exist, read our full article on endocrine disruptors in perfumes .

  • Alkylphenols;
  • Benzophenone-1, -3, -4;
  • Toluene;
  • Petrolatum / paraffinum liquidum (petrochemical derivatives that may contain impurities);
  • PEG (polyethylene glycols): followed by a number (e.g., PEG-40);

Although most endocrine disruptors are regulated , they are not necessarily banned. Regulations may involve limitations on quantity or form (for example, a ban on nanoparticles), or even both.

It is important to be aware of endocrine disruptors (EDs) because, although regulations exist to protect us, they do not take into account the cocktail effect; that is, the cumulative effect of several products containing endocrine disruptors. Learning to identify them then becomes essential to minimizing your exposure.

To learn more: consult our list of dangerous cosmetic products .

Tools to more easily decipher the INCI list

Fortunately, there are apps accessible to everyone that can help you see things more clearly:

  • INCI Beauty: by scanning a barcode, you get an analysis of the ingredients, with a color code indicating their level of risk (endocrine disruptor, allergen, irritant…etc).
  • Yuka: very popular, it displays an overall rating and allows you to view problematic ingredients. By clicking on each ingredient, you can see if it is an endocrine disruptor, and discover its impact on health and even the environment .

These tools facilitate the transition to safer products, but be careful not to place blind trust in them: they do not replace a critical eye or knowledge.

Choosing the right cosmetics: tips for healthy beauty

Here are a few simple steps to adopt a healthier routine that respects your hormonal balance:

  • Favor short lists: fewer ingredients often means less risk.
  • Avoid risky synthetic substances: phthalates, parabens, PEG, BHA, etc.
  • Favor transparent and committed brands that clearly display the composition and exclude endocrine disruptors.
  • Rely on recognized certifications: Cosmos Organic, Cosmébio, Nature & Progrès. These labels prohibit many controversial ingredients , including endocrine disruptors.
  • Beware of greenwashing: "natural" or "hypoallergenic" does not mean free of endocrine disruptors. Learn to read beyond marketing promises.
  • Turning to responsible brands: a pioneer in natural and sensorial perfumery, Aimée de Mars is committed to beauty that respects the body, the soul, and the Earth. Its formulations rigorously exclude endocrine disruptors, reflecting a commitment to sincerity and care.

Key takeaways

Deciphering the INCI list is like lifting the veil on what we apply to our skin every day. It's an act of awareness, but also of love for oneself, for others, and for the planet.

By identifying endocrine disruptors, using the right tools, and trusting committed brands, you can take back control of your beauty routine. Because behind every choice lies an intention. And choosing safe skincare is already a form of self-care.

Sources

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