Table of Contents

Modern perfumery

From Aromachology to Aromaperfumery®

Natural ingredients: ten times more effective

The danger of polycyclic musks

Lavender

Bergamot

Rosemary

Pink

Vanilla

Myrrh

Ylang Ylang

Incense

Sandalwood

Clary sage

Conclusion

Glossary

Bibliography

                                                 

Modern perfumery

The perfume industry has changed dramatically over the past fifty years, and today 80% of a perfume's retail price is made up of advertising, marketing, and sales. The fragrance composition itself now represents only a tiny fraction of the budget, severely restricting the choice of raw materials. Consequently, only synthetic products are feasible to meet the stringent requirements imposed on perfumers, where advertising takes precedence over the quality of the ingredients.

In the 1960s, perfumes still contained 75% natural ingredients and 25% synthetic ones. Today, the percentage of natural ingredients is well below 25%. The main reasons for this decline are, of course, the advances in synthetic chemistry, but especially the conditions imposed on this type of production, its cost, and new regulations.

Another important factor in the evolution of the use of natural products is mass production . A launch at a major perfume house starts with a ton of concentrate. On these scales, it is difficult to use only natural materials. ^[1]

From Aromachology to Aromaperfumery®

Aromatherapy is a branch of phytotherapy. It was created by the chemist Gattefossé in 1910. It involves the use of essential oils for therapeutic purposes. It is a natural therapy based on the relationship between the chemical components of essential oils and their resulting therapeutic activities. Essential oils are chosen according to their composition, where each molecule possesses certain physical properties. ^[2]

Smell is the only one of our senses that doesn't directly reach conscious awareness. The olfactory message we perceive when we smell something first passes through the unconscious, via the limbic system. This part of the brain is the seat of our emotions and plays a major role in our everyday behavior. The limbic system is also where memory is formed; this is why a smell is systematically associated with a memory. Each person therefore perceives a smell differently, depending on their life experiences and olfactory background.

This is how the smell we breathe triggers physiological reactions without our being aware of it. In addition to this positive (pleasure of the smell) or negative (rejection, flight) behavior, the smell also triggers a specific reaction in our body. ^[3]

Unlike aromatherapy, olfactotherapy uses the evocative power of odors to treat a patient's ailments or addiction. It is a psycho-energetic therapy derived from aromachology, the science that studies the influence of odors on behavior, mood, and the psyche (a term first used in 1982). By exploring the emotions evoked by certain odors, the patient can trace the origin of the problem and associate it with a new odor, this time linked to a positive emotion. This therapy is very effective against addictions. ^[4]

The first perfume used in aromatherapy was created by the Egyptians in ancient Egypt; it was called Kyphi ^[5] . It was a remedy for respiratory ailments such as asthma and lung diseases. It was notably used in fumigation, releasing a sweet vapor. Plutarch describes it in this way in Isis and Osiris:

“This vapor, insinuating itself into the body by means of the breath, lulls it gently and imperceptibly, invites it to sleep, and spreads a delightful influence around it. Daily worries, which are like so many painful chains, lose their ache and intensity; they weaken and relax, without the aid of intoxication. Acting also on the imagination, a faculty so powerful in dreams, these exhalations render it as clear as the most perfect mirror. The effect obtained is no less marvelous than that of the sounds of the lyre, which the Pythagoreans used before experiencing sleep. In this way, the troubles and disorders of the soul are charmed and soothed. Moreover, scents have more than once revived feelings that were fading away; "More than once, they have also calmed and soothed the nervous system through the subtlety of their influence: just as, according to some doctors, sleep occurs after the stomach has received food."

Aromaparfumerie® is the union of fine perfumery and the power of plants, based on the principles of aromatherapy and olfactotherapy. It elevates the art of perfumery by harnessing the evocative power of scents and the beneficial properties of essential oils. An active core of 21 essential oils is present in each fragrance , acting on the psyche to promote overall well-being. The surrounding materials then create the unique trail of the fragrances, symbolizing a character, a personality. Each perfume has a specific action, providing joy, relaxation, and a range of other emotions that essential oils can convey.

Natural ingredients: ten times more effective

Essential oils, resins, and absolutes are extracted directly from the plant. These natural materials are the very essence of the plant . The plant grows by capturing sunlight and transforming it to create its own energy; the essential oil extracted from it therefore contains all of this information.

Synthetic materials used in perfumery are man-made through chemical reactions. Unlike natural materials, which are complex compounds made up of numerous fragrant molecules, synthetic materials generally consist of a single molecule, more or less purified. Furthermore, the starting molecules, which after reactions form the final molecule, do not carry the same vibrational energy , as they lack the energy derived from nature itself. Thus, the resulting compound does not exhibit the same biochemical properties, since it is an isolated molecule, and its energetic aspect is entirely different from that of the natural molecule.

The quantum mechanism of olfaction largely explains this phenomenon. Indeed, our olfactory receptors function exactly like a scanning tunneling spectroscope. Thus, molecules are no longer recognized by their shape, but rather by their energy, which is proportional to their vibrational frequency. Molecules would then have a message far broader than the simple characteristics studied in classical physics, notably because of wave-particle duality, non-separability, and all the concepts introduced by quantum mechanics. ^[6]

“Finally, the fact that an essential oil is more than the sum of its constituent molecules, and that the entire plant is contained within it, can easily be explained within this topological and quantum framework. Indeed, wave-particle duality means that each molecule is, a priori, in instantaneous contact with the entire universe via correlations between quantum phases. The essential oil must therefore be perceived as an inseparable unit, and it is utterly ridiculous to analyze it solely in terms of its constituent chemical molecules. This materialistic and reductionist approach would be perfectly reasonable if the world functioned according to classical physics. In a quantum world, it is possible to encode the informational content of any individual animal or plant in an aqueous volume of 0.1 mm³! ... It should therefore come as no surprise that a simple scent can evoke the plant or animal in its finest details, or even holistically and comprehensively treat an organic or cellular dysfunction.” » Professor Marc HENRY, Quantum Aspects of the Sense of Smell, 2012. ^[7]

The active core is composed of 21 essential oils that work synergistically. Part of its action is described later in this document, where ten of the main essential oils are presented.

The danger of polycyclic musks

A recent study ^[8] conducted by Greenpeace showed that many perfume brands use large quantities of synthetic polycyclic musks, at percentages of up to 45% of the fragrance. These chemicals are known to be contaminants of blood and breast milk, and are strongly suspected of being endocrine disruptors. Current regulations do not prohibit the use of these dangerous substances, but only a few molecules such as ambrette musk, Galaxolide, and xylene musk. Even if the consequences for the future of humanity are still unknown, the interference with the hormonal regulatory system is very real, due to their similarity to steroids (testosterone, estrogen, progesterone, cortisone).

Furthermore, these products are highly persistent in the environment , in aquatic environments, and in the atmosphere. These compounds are even found in rainwater, as demonstrated by a 2003 study conducted in the Netherlands; ambrette musk, banned in the EU since 1995, was found in 34% of the testing locations.

Aimée de Mars® perfumes are formulated without polycyclic musks. Only two macrocyclic musks are used because these molecules are naturally present in ambrette oil (Hibiscus family).

Lavender

Latin name: Lavandula angustifolia

Botanical family: Lamiaceae

Origin: Drôme, France

Properties ^{[2][4[9][10][11][12]}

The benefits of lavender have been known for millennia, and its essential oil is the most widely used in aromatherapy. Its beneficial effects are largely due to its high proportion of linalyl acetate and linalool. These two chemotypes have regulatory effects on neurotransmitters, and therefore act on the brain, the hormonal system, and the immune system.

Fine Lavender Essential Oil	linalyl acetate	40-50%
	1,8-cineole	1.50%
	beta caryophyllene	8.00%
	Ocimene	7-13%
	linalool	30-40%

Table 3: Chemical composition of lavender essential oil

Linalyl acetate	cardiac regulator, antispasmodic, calming, hypotensive, sedative
linalool	calming, neurotonic, immune modulator, antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, antiparasitic
1,8-cineole	antifungal, antiviral, respiratory decongestant, expectorant, immune modulator
beta caryophyllene	anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, calming, hypotensive
Ocimene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant

Table 4: Properties of lavender chemotypes

It has an extraordinary rebalancing power because it acts on the psyche and tempers extremes. Thanks to its regulating effect, it is also effective against depressive disorders and anxiety, stress, emotional instability, and fears. It can be stimulating, but also calm the nerves and facilitate sleep. It has a harmonizing effect on the cardiovascular system and blood pressure. Its unique characteristic is that it acts as a catalyst, thus having a synergistic effect with other essential oils (often combined with bergamot).

Efficacy tests of lavender

Insomnia

An experiment ^[13] was conducted on 158 postpartum women . Pregnancy is a period during which sleep can become disrupted, leading to concentration problems, decreased motivation for daily life, and increased irritability. The objective of this study, conducted by Zanjan University of Medical Sciences, was to observe the effects of aromatherapy, and more specifically lavender, on sleep.

The group was randomly divided in two. Each woman in the first group was instructed to inhale ten times consecutively from a cotton ball soaked in lavender essential oil, then leave the cotton ball on her pillow overnight. This procedure was performed four times a week for eight weeks. The second group underwent the same procedure but with a placebo (sesame oil).

This study therefore showed that the quality of sleep in postnatal women (essentially the time it took to fall asleep) was improved more rapidly for women who used lavender essential oil.

In Korea, a second study ^[14] was conducted on insomnia and depression over four weeks with 44 female students. The protocol was as follows: one control week, one week with 60% lavender essential oil, one rest week, and then one week with 100% lavender essential oil. At the end of the protocol, sleep quality, time to fall asleep, and sleep satisfaction improved starting from the 60% phase. Depressive symptoms improved starting from the 100% phase.

A third study ^[15] was conducted in Iran on insomnia in intensive care patients . The study was carried out over three days on 64 patients, both men and women, hospitalized in intensive care. The study showed a significant difference between the two groups after aromatherapy treatment.

Anxiety

The study ^[16] conducted by Celal Bayar University in Turkey involved a group of 95 students , 45 of whom were in the control group, during a school test. Each group was placed in a room with the door and windows closed, 15 minutes before the test, and lavender was diffused. The test was therefore carried out in a lavender atmosphere and lasted 60 minutes. The control group was in the same conditions, without the lavender.

The results (indicative scale) are as follows:

Figure 1: Results of the anxiety test and the test performed

Therefore, there is no significant difference in the results of the test, but there is a significant difference in the anxiety felt by students with and without the diffusion of lavender.

Relaxation

The study ^[17] was conducted by Chiba University in Japan on 30 healthy men between 24 and 40 years old. Cortisol levels, CFVR (coronary artery flow), pulse rate, and blood pressure were measured during 30 minutes of inhalation of lavender essential oil.

Blood pressure and pulse did not undergo significant variation during the experiment; however, cortisol levels dropped considerably (from 8.4 to 6.3) and CFVR increased (from 3.8 to 4.7).

Figure 2: Evolution of cortisol levels during the experiment

The evolution of cortisol levels in the control group is shown in white, and that of the study group in black.

Figure 3: Evolution of CFVR during the experiment

Bergamot

Latin name: citrus bergamia

Botanical family: Rutaceae

Origin: Italy

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][18]}

The virtues of bergamot are also well known in aromatherapy. Indeed, it too possesses a soothing and calming effect thanks to its nerve-regulating action (sympathetic and parasympathetic) and a stimulating and invigorating effect in the opposite case. It is therefore useful in cases of anxiety, agitation, nervousness, and stress, but also for depression, concentration problems, and nervous fatigue. It restores hope and helps to cultivate a positive outlook and is similar to lavender (it has a very similar composition) in its anxiolytic and neuro-sedative properties. Furocoumarins add a strong regulatory effect on the nervous system.

Bergamot essential oil	linalyl acetate	30-45%
	limonene	30-45%
	furocoumarin	5.00%
	linalool	10-25%

Table 5: Chemical composition of bergamot essential oil

 

Linalyl acetate	cardiac regulator, antispasmodic, calming, hypotensive, sedative
limonene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant
linalool	calming, neurotonic, immune modulator, antibacterial, antiviral, antiparasitic
coumarin	Hepatopancreatic stimulant, nerve sedative, hypotensive, antiparasitic

Table 6: Properties of bergamot chemotypes

Bergamot Efficacy Tests

Stress

In Taiwan, a study ^[19] was conducted on the stress experienced by primary school teachers. The objective of this study was to measure the impact of bergamot essential oil on the regulation of the autonomic nervous system. It was carried out on 54 teachers from three different schools.

The first step involved measuring each teacher's anxiety level and then dividing them into three groups: mildly anxious, slightly anxious, and moderately anxious. Each teacher then sat for 10 minutes, inactive, while bergamot essential oil was diffused. During this period, and then for a further 7 minutes after the test, blood pressure and heart rate variability were measured.

Teachers treated with bergamot essential oil diffusion all exhibit a decrease in blood pressure, a decrease in heart rate, and an increase in parasympathetic nerve activity, indicating that bergamot essential oil appears to guide the activity of the autonomic nervous system towards a balance.

A second ^[20] study was conducted in Kyoto on 41 women . Each woman underwent three different stages: rest, rest + steam, and rest + steam + bergamot essential oil, each stage lasting 15 minutes. After each stage, saliva was collected to measure cortisol levels. At the end of the experiment, cortisol levels during the rest + steam + bergamot essential oil stage were lower than those during the rest-only stage.

 

Rosemary

Latin name: rosmanirus officinalis verbenoniferum

Botanical family: Lamiaceae

Origin: Drôme

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][21]}

Rosemary verbenone essential oil	1,8-cineole	10-15%
	bornyl acetate	10-15%
	alpha pinene	45-55%
	camphene
	Camphor	15-20%
	verbenone

Table 7: Chemical composition of rosemary verbenone essential oil

 

1,8-cineole	antiviral, respiratory decongestant, expectorant, immune modulator
camphene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant
bornyl acetate	anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, calming, hypotensive, sedative
verbenone	antiparasitic, antiviral, cholagogue, choleretic, antisclerotic, endocrine balancing, lipolytic, central nervous system stimulant, narcotic, sympathicotonic
camphor	antiparasitic, antiviral, cholagogue, antisclerotic, central nervous system stimulant, narcotic, sympathicotonic
alpha pinene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant

Table 8: Properties of verbenone rosemary chemotypes

Rosemary verbenone is the most active of the rosemary varieties in addressing hormonal issues. It is renowned for its effectiveness in improving concentration and combating overwork. Indeed, it is a very useful nerve balancer against nervousness, irritability, mood swings, as well as stress, emotional sensitivity, and anxiety. It also acts as a tonic against fatigue, whether physical or mental, and increases concentration and efficiency in overworked adults. It strengthens memory and is said to be a good remedy for the elderly, those with Alzheimer's disease, or those suffering from neurodegenerative disorders.

Rosemary efficacy tests

Stress

Meikai University in Japan conducted a study ^[22] on 22 volunteers . The subjects had to smell rosemary essential oil for 5 minutes and their saliva was collected immediately.

Figure 4: Evolution of cortisol levels

The results show a clear decrease in cortisol levels between the control test (containing only propylene glycol).

Concentration and memory

A 2003 study ^[23] involving 144 participants showed that inhaling rosemary improved memory by 75%. The group was divided into three: one group was given no scent, one group inhaled lavender, and one group inhaled rosemary. Participants then underwent memory tests. The two groups that did not inhale rosemary showed a significant lag compared to the group that inhaled the essential oil. The quality and performance of their memory were boosted.

Pink

Latin name: Rosa damascena

Botanical family: Rosaceae

Origin: Bulgaria

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][24]}

Rose Essential Oil	citronellol	60-80%
	geraniol
	citronellyl acetate	10-15%
	phenylethyl alcohol	5-10%

Table 9: Chemical composition of rose essential oil

citronellol	antibacterial, antiparasitic, antiviral, immune modulator, neurotonic
geraniol	antibacterial, antiparasitic, antiviral, immune modulator, neurotonic

Table 10: Properties of rose chemotypes

The rose possesses a strong balancing and harmonizing quality due to its regulatory action on the endocrine system. It therefore acts as a tonic for the nervous and cardiovascular systems and as a lymphatic stimulant. It is also stress-relieving, relaxing, and uplifting, with aphrodisiac properties. It facilitates letting go and helps overcome hurt without bitterness or a desire for revenge.

Rose efficacy tests

Relaxation

A study ^[25] was conducted at Chiba University in Japan on 20 female students . Air impregnated with rose essential oil (0.2 μL) was injected into a 24-liter bag held approximately 10 cm from each subject's nose. Physiological effects were determined by infrared spectroscopy (Oxy-Hb concentration), and psychological effects were determined by a more subjective study involving rating the following pairs of adjectives: "comfortable/uncomfortable, relaxed/agitated, natural/unnatural" on a qualitative scale. The room was then ventilated for 7 minutes between each participant.

Olfactory stimulation with rose essential oil induced a significant decrease in oxy-Hb levels in the right prefrontal cortex. In the left prefrontal cortex, levels also tended to decrease, but less markedly. This translates into a reduction in prefrontal cortex activity and thus physiological relaxation.

Figure 5: Evolution of oxy-Hb concentration during olfaction

Figure 6: Results of the psychological study

The psychological study showed that the feelings of comfort, naturalness, and relaxation experienced with rose essential oil were significantly greater than with the control group. Rose essential oil therefore promotes both physiological and psychological relaxation.

Stress

In Japan, a study ^[26] was conducted on 16 students (8 men and 8 women). Their saliva was collected before the experiment, then rose essential oil was diffused for 40 minutes, then the saliva was collected again.

Figure 7: Cortisol levels in men and women before and after essential oil diffusion

It is clear that the cortisol level decreased during the experiment, which translates into a decrease in nervous activity and stress.

Also in Japan, a second study ^[27] was conducted on 14 female students , each wearing a rose-scented patch. Saliva concentration and cortisol concentration were measured 21 days before the exams, then 3 days after the start, and just at the end of the exam period.

Figure 8: Evolution of cortisol concentration during the experiment

Vanilla

Latin name: vanilla fragrans

Botanical family: Orchidaceae

origin: magagascar / comoros

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][28]}

Vanilla essential oil

Vanillin

90.00%

Table 11: Composition of vanilla essential oil

Vanillin

anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, anxiolytic, psychotonic, calming

Table 12: Properties of vanilla chemotypes

Its fragrance is associated with warmth and relaxation. Furthermore, it acts as a pheromone (a substance that induces physiological or behavioral reactions) between individuals of the same species, and has a modulating effect on the release of serotonin (a neurotransmitter that transmits nerve impulses between neurons). It is therefore reassuring and comforting, and can be helpful in cases of depression, anxiety, as well as intellectual fatigue, asthenia, and lack of self-confidence. It promotes sleep and can reduce stress.

Vanilla Efficacy Tests

Sleep and Relaxation

Studies ^[29] conducted at the University Hospital of Strasbourg showed that premature infants reacted differently to the smell of vanilla and rancid butter. The smell of vanilla elicited facial responses expressing consent, while rancid butter caused grimaces expressing disgust. Furthermore, exposure to these odors led to changes in respiratory rate: the unpleasant odor slowed the respiratory rate, while the pleasant odor accelerated it. Diffusing vanilla for 24 hours reduced the number of apneas by an average of 36%, and in particular, apneas associated with severe bradycardia by 45%. Vanilla could therefore alleviate episodes of agitation related to mother-infant separation . This is explained by the structure of vanillin, which is very similar to one of the dominant components of breast milk, and would thus constitute an extension of the mother.

Myrrh

Latin name: Commiphora myrrha

Botanical family: Burseraceae

Origin: Namibia

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][30]}

Myrrh essential oil	furanosesquiterpenes	60%
	copaene	20-45%

Table 13: Chemical composition of myrrh essential oil

 

copaene	anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, calming, venous and lymphatic decongestant, hypotensive
furanosesquiterpenes	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant

Table 14: Properties of myrrh chemotypes

Through its endocrine-regulating action, myrrh stabilizes and protects the nervous system. It promotes mental well-being and sensory delight. It is also inspiring.

The Egyptians and Hebrews valued it for its effect on the psyche during religious ceremonies. It was also used for embalming the dead, childbirth, as a remedy for numerous illnesses, and was one of the main ingredients of Kyphi.

Myrrh Efficacy Test

Anti-cancer action

An in vitro study ^[31]  A study was conducted in China to demonstrate the effectiveness of myrrh essential oil against cancer. It was proven that this essential oil promotes the inhibition of cancer cells by inducing their apoptosis.

Figure 9: Apoptosis rate as a function of concentration and essential oil used

Ylang Ylang

Latin name: cananga odorata

Botanical family: Annonaceae

Origin: The Comoros

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][32][33]}

Ylang-ylang essential oil	geranyl acetate	40-60%
	benzyl benzoate
	beta caryophyllene	30-40%
	germacrene D
	geraniol	4%
	linalool	15-20%

Table 15: Chemical composition of ylang-ylang essential oil

Geranyl acetate	antispasmodic, calming, hypotensive, sedative, anti-inflammatory
benzyl benzoate	anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, calming, hypotensive, sedative
geraniol	antibacterial, antifungal, antiparasitic, antiviral, immune modulator, neurotonic
linalool	calming, neurotonic, immune modulator, antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, antiparasitic,
beta caryophyllene	anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, calming, venous and lymphatic decongestant, hypotensive
germacrene	anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, calming, venous and lymphatic decongestant, hypotensive

Table 16: Properties of ylang-ylang chemotypes

Ylang-ylang is first and foremost a balancing agent. It provides a sense of security and self-confidence. It's the scent of good cheer; it relaxes and awakens passion, and facilitates communication. It also combats anger, frustration, insomnia, and phobias. Furthermore, it stimulates intuition and creativity and is particularly useful for people suffering from overwork who struggle to disconnect from their thoughts and let go.

Ylang-ylang was widely used in rituals in the East. In India, this flower was ubiquitous in monasteries, used to invoke the gods' help and mercy upon the faithful. Filipinos used it to ward off fevers and infections. In Hindu monasteries, it was used in rituals to attract cosmic aid. Brahmins used it in their sacred balms to enhance their charisma and magnetism.

Ylang ylang efficacy tests

Stress and hypertension

The aim of this study ^[34] conducted in Korea was to demonstrate the effects of ylang-ylang essential oil on blood pressure and salivary cortisol levels. The study involved 83 patients with hypertension. One group of 28 people inhaled ylang-ylang essential oil, another group of 27 received a placebo, and a control group received no treatment. Blood pressure was measured 10 minutes after each intervention, and cortisol levels were measured 10 minutes after rinsing the mouth. The results are as follows:

Figure 10: Results of the blood pressure experiment

Figure 11: Change in cortisol levels before and after ylang-ylang diffusion

It is clear that only the group that inhaled ylang-ylang essential oil experienced a decrease in blood pressure and cortisol levels. This study is interesting because it rules out the placebo effect, thus demonstrating the effectiveness of this essential oil for relaxation and stress reduction. Furthermore, the study was conducted over four weeks, with one test on Monday and one on Tuesday. Each time, the results were similar to those presented here. This demonstrates the effectiveness of ylang-ylang essential oil, as the repeated results eliminate the "psychological" effect.

A second study ^[35] was conducted on 29 men at Konkuk University in Korea to evaluate the effects of ylang-ylang essential oil on physiological parameters. The parameters measured were skin temperature, pulse, respiration, and blood pressure. The study was carried out on two groups: one group placed in a closed room for 20 minutes with ylang-ylang diffusion, and a control group (14). The results are similar to the previous study; a decrease in systolic and diastolic blood pressure was indeed observed.

Incense

Latin name: Boswellia carterii

Botanical family: Burseraceae

Origin: Somalia

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][36][37][38]}

Frankincense essential oil	alpha pinene	45-55%
	limonene	10-15%
	myrcene	5-10%
	paracymene	5-10%
	Sabine	5-10%

Table 17: Chemical composition of frankincense essential oil

 

alpha pinene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant
limonene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant
myrcene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant
paracymene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant
Sabine	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant

Table 18: Properties of frankincense chemotypes

Due to its high terpene content, frankincense has a strong endocrine-stimulating and corticomimetic effect, giving it anxiolytic, rebalancing, and revitalizing properties. It is particularly useful when the immune system is weakened.

Furthermore, it is the only one to contain a diterpenol called incensol, which has a regulatory effect on several hormones; this molecule provides strength and serenity. Scientific studies even suggest it may have an anti-cancer effect.

The beneficial aspects of incense have been known for a very long time; it is a sacred substance, used in religious ceremonies since time immemorial. As the smoke rises to the heavens, it was believed to appease the gods and convey prayers to them, purify a place, and influence the state of mind for meditation or other religious practices, regardless of culture.

The Egyptians, besides its purifying power during the embalming of the dead or against illness, used it to "expand their consciousness" and strengthen their powers. It was dedicated to Ra, the sun god, and was also used for embalming bodies. Frankincense was also one of the gifts of the Magi, along with gold and myrrh, and it was one of the ingredients of the sacred perfume (Kyphi).

Incense efficacy tests

Action against pathogens

The Burceraceae family, and Boswellia in particular, is among the most thoroughly studied Eastern medicinal plants by Western scientists. A 1988 paper published in Agents et Actions, followed by another in 1992 in the Journal of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics, provided insights into the mechanisms of action of Boswellia extract, or more specifically, boswellic acid. Boswellic acid influences antibody production and cell-mediated immunity. It also inhibits the production of inflammatory mediators such as leukotrienes.

Frankincense and myrrh have been used synergistically since 1500 BC, but no studies had been conducted to demonstrate their complementary action. A study ^[39] was therefore carried out in South Africa, at the University of the Witwatersrand, to prove increased efficacy against a selection of pathogens (Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus cereus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, etc.). Several combinations of Boswellia and myrrh were tested, and at the end of the experiment, 52.8% of the combinations tested showed a positive effect compared to their use alone.

Another study ^[40] in Athens showed that frankincense essential oil was capable of annihilating the viability of pancreatic cancer cells. It could be a therapeutic alternative against the cytotoxicity of tumor cells, particularly for pancreatic adenocarcinomas.

Relaxation

At a cancer center in London ^[41] , aromatherapists worked with ward staff and patients to improve their well-being and quality of life. Oils were chosen to relieve nausea and promote relaxation. 514 essential oils were distributed to patients, each with different types of cancer. Ultimately, lavender, bergamot, and frankincense were the most frequently used.

Sandalwood

Latin name: santalum album

Botanical family: Santalaceae

Origin: Australia

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][42][43][44]}

Sandalwood essential oil	sandalene	15.00%
	sandalwood	85.00%

Table 19: Chemical composition of sandalwood essential oil

sandalwood	Cardiotonic, venous and lymphatic decongestant, hormone-like
sandalene	anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, calming, venous and lymphatic decongestant, hypotensive

Table 20: Properties of sandalwood chemotypes

Santalols act directly on the pituitary gland; they therefore have a strong pheromonal character. This gives sandalwood a regulatory effect on stress and sex hormones, and an action comparable to that of neuroleptics. It thus helps to alleviate worries, calm tension and nervous exhaustion, restore balance, and revive a healthy mind. It is also an excellent stimulant of metabolism, particularly the heart.

In the East, sandalwood is deeply rooted in cultural and spiritual traditions. It is used to cover the dead, aiding their transition to the afterlife. At weddings, it is also burned so that the smoke envelops the bride and groom. In traditional medicine, it is also valued for its ability to calm heated emotions and help alleviate excessive worry and anxiety.

Sandalwood efficacy tests

Anti-cancer action

Sandalwood, and more specifically santalol, has been studied ^[45] In the United States, it is recognized for its ability to halt the cell cycle of cancer cells. It is therefore listed as having anticancer activity during carcinogenesis due to this mode of action.

Clary sage

Latin name: Salvia sclarea

Botanical family: Lamiaceae

Origin: Drôme, France

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][46]}

Clary sage essential oil	linalyl acetate	75.00%
	germacrene	5-10%
	linalool	17-20%

Table 21: Chemical composition of clary sage essential oil

linalool	calming, neurotonic, immune modulator, antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, antiparasitic,
germacrene	anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, calming, venous and lymphatic decongestant, hypotensive
Linalyl acetate	cardiac regulator, antispasmodic, calming, hypotensive, sedative

Table 22: Properties of clary sage chemotypes

Sage essential oil is one of the most relaxing. It eases tension, releases blocked energy, and boosts self-confidence. It helps you take life more lightly and broaden your mind, and helps dispel fears, worries (especially relationship tensions), and anxieties. It has a strong stimulating effect on the imagination and creativity. Furthermore, it helps relieve spasmodic pain.

In Latin, salvia means to heal or to save. In many ancient cultures, sage was believed to have protective and purifying properties. It was also used to cultivate maturity and spiritual wisdom. It was one of the major medicinal plants in medieval Europe, used by monks to treat the sick with various ailments, as it was considered a cure-all.

Efficacy tests of clary sage

Stress

A study ^[47] conducted by the National Research Foundation of Korea involved 34 women . Each patient inhaled sage essential oil during a gynecological examination. Heart rate, respiratory rate, and blood pressure were measured to study the physiological responses of the autonomic nervous system under stress. Cortisol levels were also recorded before and after the examination.

Figure 12: Results after inhalation of sage essential oil

Figure 13: Changes in cortisol levels before and after inhalation of sage essential oil

Conclusion

The power of nature and plants has been well known since time immemorial. It is common to all cultures. It is used in medicine, through herbal medicine, and more specifically aromatherapy with essential oils.

More recently, scientists have turned their attention to a previously understudied sense: smell. It has proven to be our most primitive sense, but certainly the most complex. Aromachology has demonstrated that odors directly influence our psyche, and consequently, our behavior. Theories on the quantum nature of olfaction have since emerged, suggesting that essential oils offer more than their well-known biochemical properties in aromatherapy, drawing their energy from nature.

Aromaparfumerie® is a fusion of the benefits offered by nature and the art of fine perfumery. The active core present in each fragrance combines sensory pleasure with the care of body and mind.

Glossary

Apoptosis: (or programmed cell death) is the process by which cells trigger their self-destruction in response to a signal.

Chemotype: a distinct chemical entity within the same species .

Cortisol: a steroid hormone secreted by the cortex from cholesterol. It regulates blood sugar, immune system responses, and fat metabolism. It is a marker of stress: its level increases during periods of stress.

Wave-particle duality: Quantum physics has succeeded in demonstrating the dual nature of light, which is both composed of particles and also has a wave-like form, thus quantifying energy. This shows the power of the molecule, beyond its simple composition.

Nature-identical: a compound chemically identical to its natural counterpart, obtained through synthesis. These synthetic products are not molecules invented by humans, but copied from nature.

Lymphotonics: activates circulation within the lymphatic system (or network).

Neurotonic: which restores the tone of the nervous system without exciting it.

Pheromone: a chemical substance or mixture of substances produced by exocrine glands that trigger physiological or behavioral reactions between individuals of the same species .

Quantum physics: Quantum physics encompasses all areas of physics where the application of the laws of quantum mechanics is essential for understanding the phenomena at play. Quantum mechanics is the fundamental theory of matter particles that constitute the objects in the universe and of the force fields that govern these objects. It introduces concepts such as spacetime, relativity, and the quantum of energy.

Systolic and diastolic pressure: Systolic pressure is the pressure in the blood vessels when the heart contracts. Diastolic pressure is the pressure in the blood vessels between contractions.

Principle of non-separability: Two particles that have been in contact at a given moment remain forever linked, even when separated by infinite distances. Thus, any change in one will be transmitted to the other, to which it is correlated, beyond space and time. This highlights the connection between the essential oil extracted from the plant and the plant itself.

Sympathicotonic: excites the sympathetic nervous system which is involved in muscle contraction and heart rhythm .

Endocrine system: A set of organs and tissues that release hormones into the blood.

 

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