Les perturbateurs endocriniens dans les parfums : mythe ou réalité?

Endocrine disruptors in perfumes: myth or reality?

An endocrine disruptor is a molecule that can disrupt the normal functioning of our hormones, even if it is present in very low doses in a product.

The presence of these microscopic molecules in many cosmetic products raises serious concerns. Indeed, they can impair fertility, increase the risk of certain hormone-dependent cancers, and even disrupt children's development and growth.

They can be found everywhere, especially in everyday hygiene products: soaps, creams, makeup, hair care products, perfumes…

In this latter case, vigilance is essential. Indeed, perfumes (eau de toilette, eau de parfum, eau de cologne) are applied directly to the skin, inhaled, and often used from adolescence, or even childhood. They are problematic, not only because of the endocrine disruptors they contain, but also because of other factors.

The components of perfumes: what do we really find in them?

A conventional perfume is not simply a natural fragrance. It combines many chemical components, including:

  • Allergens (limonene, linalool, geraniol): must be listed, their presence is one of the first risks identified.
  • Substances identified as endocrine disruptors: phthalates (including DEP) used as fixatives, certain synthetic musks, UV filters added to stabilize the formula and prolong the life of the perfume.
  • Toxic substances: solvents or preservatives releasing formaldehyde and other problematic compounds.
  • Dyes: which are present solely for the purpose of giving a certain color to products, yet carry with them harmful substances that could easily be avoided…
  • Volatile organic compounds: contributing directly to indoor and outdoor air pollution.
  • Irritants: high concentration of alcohol in some toilet waters or perfumes.

Some major houses or cologne brands made in Provence continue to use these classic processes, even if they now display more transparency and some progress in terms of safety.

A closer look at endocrine disruptors in perfumes

Phthalates, which we briefly discussed above, are chemical compounds widely used in everyday consumer products: perfumes, shampoos, deodorants, plastics, and food packaging.

Their role is often to fix odors or to soften materials. These substances are classified as endocrine disruptors, capable of disrupting the production and regulation of hormones in the human body – but not only that: they also affect ecosystems, which makes them a concern for the environment as well.

Scientific studies highlight worrying effects, particularly during developmental stages: during pregnancy, early childhood, and adolescence. A recent study, for example, showed that significant exposure to phthalates increased the risk of ADHD-related behaviors in adolescents by 25%.

But the consequences don't stop there, since in adults, these compounds have been linked to cardiovascular disease. Another study even revealed that stopping the use of beauty products containing phthalates quickly led to measurable improvement: after just 28 days without exposure, participants showed not only a significant drop in urinary phthalate concentrations, but also a decrease in the expression of cancer-related genes.

In light of these results, some industry representatives still believe the evidence is insufficient to justify a ban. However, for Andrea Gore, professor of pharmacology and toxicology at the University of Texas at Austin, the signs are already quite clear: she recommends minimizing exposure, especially for families and parents of young children, who are particularly vulnerable. This caution is all the more necessary given that European regulations on endocrine disruptors remain limited and are evolving slowly.

How to choose your perfumes better?

Before choosing a perfume, it's important to consider those most sensitive to endocrine disruptors . Pregnant women, children, teenagers, and people with allergies or asthma, not to mention those with hormone-related conditions (such as PCOS, endometriosis, or thyroid problems): these groups require extra vigilance. For them, every ingredient counts, and simplicity becomes a true guarantee of safety.

Fortunately, it is now possible to wear perfume with complete peace of mind, provided you know how to decipher labels , identify good labels , and explore natural alternatives adapted to each profile.

1. Identify the right labels at a glance

Many labels now exist to identify perfumes made without controversial ingredients. The most recognized, such as COSMOS , Nature & Progrès , or Natrue , guarantee the absence of petrochemical-derived substances, problematic preservatives, or synthetic fragrances.

These labels also require total transparency on composition, an environmentally friendly approach, and, very often, local and/or ethical manufacturing.

Good to know: a perfume certified Cosmos Organic or Nature & Progrès excludes, for example, the use of phthalates, nitrated musks or other synthetic fixatives still common in conventional perfumery.

Want to learn more? Find our full article on labels guaranteeing cosmetics free from endocrine disruptors .

2. Learn to read between the lines

Even without a label, certain information on the label can already help you assess the composition of a perfume. This involves a careful—and sometimes slightly technical—reading of the famous INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list, which is mandatory on all cosmetic products sold in Europe.

Examples of phrases to decipher:

  • “Parfum” or “Fragrance” : these generic terms can refer to a mixture of dozens of molecules, natural or synthetic. In conventional perfumery, they sometimes mask the presence of phthalates or synthetic musk .
  • Declared allergens (limonene, geraniol, linalool, etc.): their inclusion is mandatory above a certain threshold. These components are often of natural origin (derived from essential oils) but can irritate sensitive skin.
  • Technical terms or abbreviations: such as DEP (diethyl phthalate) , BHT , or benzyl salicylate . Some of these are suspected of being endocrine disruptors or allergens.

Reading a label properly doesn't require being a chemist, but it does require a few simple reflexes. The shorter the INCI list, the better. A minimalist formulation often means transparency… and safety.

To learn more, check out our guide: How to decipher the INCI list to identify endocrine disruptors?

3. Explore healthier alternatives

Natural perfumery now offers a wide variety of options for those who wish to combine olfactory pleasure with safety. Unlike conventional perfumes, these alternatives rely on simpler compositions , often 100% natural in origin, without synthetic fixatives or petrochemical-derived ingredients.

Among the most popular formats:

  • Solid perfumes : convenient to carry, alcohol-free, ideal for dry or sensitive skin.
  • Natural perfumes : formulated with essential oils , they offer a beautiful olfactory richness. Note: some allergens may be listed because they are naturally present in the essential oils used. Their plant origin and controlled dosage distinguish them from controversial synthetic ingredients. At Aimée de Mars, we go even further by ensuring that our essential oil formulas are designed to prevent photosensitivity. Our perfumes can be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
  • Hydrosols and floral waters : perfect for children or for light, everyday use.

At Aimée de Mars, perfumes are formulated with organic, chemically undenatured wheat alcohol , living Celtic spring water , and natural fragrances based on precious essential oils and flower absolutes. No synthetic ingredients or suspected endocrine disruptors are used in their creation: they contain no phthalates, synthetic musks, chemical filters, or controversial preservatives like BHT, and can be used even during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Conclusion: Myth or reality?

It's a fact! The presence of endocrine disruptors in perfumes, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, and cologne is not a myth. Studies conducted in Europe, the United States, and Canada confirm that these chemicals are still present in the formulas.

Vigilance remains key. To reduce exposure to endocrine disruptors, every action counts: choose certified perfumes, carefully read the INCI list, favor simpler formats, particularly for more sensitive profiles… By combining these good habits, we protect not only our own health, but also that of our loved ones — children, teenagers, pregnant women — and even the environment.

Some brands have chosen to go beyond mere regulatory compliance. This is the case with Aimée de Mars, a pioneer in creating perfumes free of endocrine disruptors. Awaken your senses with fragrances that reflect your personality: discover our selection of endocrine disruptor-free perfumes .